The French Senate has backed a new bill targeted at ultra-fast fashion sites like Shein and Temu that includes a ban on advertising as well as sanctions for the influencers who promote them online. The bill, which aims to move the sector towards more sustainable practices, was passed by 337 votes in favour and only one against.
Brands like Shein and Temu have been accused of advertising fake discounts and pressure selling with false purchase deadlines. European consumer group BEUC has complained to the European Commission of “dark patterns” including shaming people into accepting offers and “nagging” consumers.
European brands like Zara and H&M will be spared, partly because they are not as “ultra” fast as the Chinese brands being targeted and they don’t operate at the same scale – but also, it seems, because France is keen to protect European businesses.
The mass production and low prices of ultra-fast fashion is having a devastating impact on the environment and, arguably, on culture. The bill also proposes an eco-tax of up to €5 per item, increasing to €10 by 2030 – although it won’t exceed 50% of the item’s retail price, and many items on these sites cost well under €10.
Shein spokesperson Quentin Ruffat warned that the move could “impact the purchasing power” of French consumers. It will also disrupt a huge digital advertising and influencer ecosystem. If the bill is found to comply with EU regulations and passes a second reading in September, it would make a big milestone in efforts to address the huge impact of fast fashion.
The Chinese brands are pivoting towards Europe in the face of US tariffs, so the French hostility will come as an extra blow. Shein’s profits plunged by almost 40% last year to €1bn, mostly due to increased competition from rival Temu.
Environmental campaigners see this as a missed opportunity. Pierre Condamine, campaign manager at Friends of the Earth France, told Euronews: “We’re going to target two brands and therefore leave out what represents at least 90% of production and clothing sold in France.”
From 2010 to 2023, the valued of fast fashion products in France rocketed from €2.3 billion to €3.2 billion. France’s environment agency, Ademe, claims that 35 items of clothing are discarded every second.
